So after leaving Dubrovnikand heading to the ferry port, we had a 6 hour ferry to the Island of Brac and more specifically the town of Bol where we were going to decamp for a week. Whilst it was long and “boring” and I had to see the same adverts on the screen for the duration – it was the easiest option. A bus, ferry and then taxi just felt like too much of a mission with two kids in tow. Direct ferry to Bol may be dull but definity a good choice.
One bonus was we got to see a couple of other islands on the way. Most famously Hvar and Hvar Town, the stomping ground by all accounts of the rich and famous and I have to admit there were some beautiful people mulling around. Thank goodness we were heading off – didn’t want to bring the level down.
So as we entered the harbour of Bol we were happy to disembark but oh so happy with out choice of destination. It was picture perfect. We headed to our villa which we booked directly with the owner – both her and her husband were amazing, the villa was beautiful, very modern, super clean and we never tired of the stunning views.
So whilst there was a lot of places to visit, after a crazy year at work we decided this was our chill time. It was time to relax, unwind and not really plan anything. We walked (a lot) we visited just about every beach in the Bol area. We ate great food, we drank lovely Croatian wine and imersed ourselves on this lovely island.
(I must point out at this stage that this must be a first for me to not be wanting to head off most days to see the sights and discover the local area but I think it may be the fault of the town. It possesses the ability to just keep you there).
The beaches, whilst shingle, were great (one bonus is no sand everywhere – and I mean everywhere) the sea water was crystal clear and in most places so still that it could be a lake. Ella has never been a fan of the sea, I think it’s vastness and the noise of the waves and current scares her a bit despite her being a mermaid in the pool, but this was the holiday we got her in the water. And we couldn’t get her out she loved it and I loved watching her love it.
We did go to the famous Zlatni Rat beach. One of the reasons the island can get busy is the day-trippers coming over to spend the day at this beach. I will be honest it is amazing, vast and a pretty cool site from above but I preferred the smaller beaches. Maybe, that is just me though. They did have another giant play area in the sea (similar to that in Dubrovnik but much bigger) and we all went on again. Great fun!
The little bars and restaurants along the seafront were just what we needed after a day in the sun and a quick Sundowner was always the order of the day before treking up the hill to the Villa. However, we made it our holiday rule that the trek had to be accompanied by a gelato of epic proportions. It really was the only way and you have to set a few rules on holiday.
A quick dip in the pool always followed our hike up the hill followed by the decision each day of whether to eat in or eat out. Such a hard life!! We were so lucky that we had one of the best rated restaurants in Bol on our doorstep. The name was Ranc Restaurant but the food certainly wasn’t. We ended up visiting twice and not just for the convenience or so we had less hill to roll ourselves up. It was just a great place. We heard all about the local dish of Lamb Peka which you need to order the day before so we did and boy – it was a good choice – stunning. Typical peasant food but wow – so tasty.
So Bol, captivated us however, we did decide to do the tourist thing of hiring a little boat for the day. To say it started off well, would be telling a little white lie. Mr Travelling Wilbennett was the captain and before we had even left the harbour he nearly careered into the side of one of the super-yachts that moored in Bol. The owner of our little boat running along the pier screaming “reverse, reverse” will stay with me for a long time. Hubby then proceeded, as he was a little unsure of his driving skills, to drive the boat at about the same speed as one could row. The children even told him to go faster as he was embarrassing them.
We finally go the hang of it and spent the next few hours drifting in and out of little bays, swimming in the sea and often being the only ones there. Robinson Crusoe moments to savour. The sky started to turn a little grey though so we headed back and I don’t think I have ever seem a more relieved person than the owner of the boat when we returned. Cold beer purchased and drunk, gelato in hand we started the climb – still laughing about our adventure.
Brac has a lot to offer, more towns and villages (probably more authentically Croatian), monastaries to visit, oil pressing, vineyards and “organised boat trips”. But we chose to embrace Bol and imerse ourselves in its splendour for a week. No regrets and if we want to see all the other stuff it gives us a reason to return.
With heavy hearts but memory bank with a few more deposits we set off on the final leg of our trip. An overnight in Split. More of that later.
Beautiful, brilliant Bol – we loved you.
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